notes about electrical power for the bar area; note that the bar fridge is NOT on this circuit.
under-bar socketsd (8) are one phase of the un-used kitchen electrical wiring; via the electrical box in cave above door; in hindsight, should have run both pahses and splite the sockets (tops on one phase, bottoms on other phasde,) so that 2x large power devices can be run a t same time.
need a chart of the various large power appliance; might be able to run more than on if they’re less than 1800W combined.’ spreadsheet is here on Google drive. latest version below (complaint: why can’t I embed using WP’s “embed” block? what I want is just a view, not a full in-line editable version. read only obvs.
too bad all these deivece are “bang/bang” cpontrols; the eleement is tuened on until the setpoiiunt if reached, termperatue goes seome what above setpoiunt, then has to drop somewhat below setpoint, at which time burnes comes on at 100%. ho excpensive can a safe 1800W AC power decive and feedback and pid be?
MAKE POST: this is another of my “wishes” for these alrge power devices: instead of being bang/bang fully on/fully off; seems to me a simble mosfet or other power electromnics would be useful for much more accurate and stable temperature control; without being syncronized somehow (which wouldn’t work fvery well to widely varying cycle times, duty cycles, etc.) while not free (the simple on/off bimetallic relay is likely much cheapoer that a relay, mosfet or quiv (probs a triac?), sensor, special chip (but many deviceds already have the necessary micrcontroller and inpuits 9buttons & such displays
i have likely written abotu hsi before. find and make a serious request
